“Just keep driving until you get to the Daesh,” the Peshmerga checkpoint guard said. I was trying to get to the front line to follow along with the Kurdish offensive outside Kirkuk on September 11th. Can’t really blame him for his concise instructions. As our car approached the front, there were dozens of up-armored Humvees and pickup trucks. Peshmerga fighters stood around waiting for their orders, talking amongst each other and smoking cigarettes. As I got out of the car and began walking down the road, a group of Kurdish journalists looked at me and began waving their hands, saying, “No good, no good!”
The puffs of smoke from either IEDs or mortar rounds rose into the air in the distance.
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