Marty grew up in California and spent his teenage years climbing in Yosemite. He traveled around California climbing and guiding at an early age. After spending four years as a PJ, Marty decided to get out and pursue his guiding career. He formed his own professional guiding company and called it MSIG (Marty Schmidt International Guiding). He love guiding and did so as naturally as possible.
Marty had an amazing free spirit about him and loved everyone. When ever he visited his family in California, he would always come out and visit me. We would stay up talking for hours. It was just incredible to hear about his journeys around the world and the climbs he was making. I was always into climbing as a PJ, so each story was an inspiration to me.
When New Zealand had their big earth quake a few years ago, it hit very close to where Marty was living. I remember talking to him shortly after the quake struck. He told me that he immediately went home and started helping those affected by the quake. That’s what kind of individual he was. He really cared deeply about all human beings.
Marty recently climbed Mt Everest. After his summit he sent an audio out to all of us following his climb. It was so amazing to hear the joy in his voice as he talked about the spectacular view while on top of the world. I was blown away when he sent me a personal message to my Facebook page while up on his Everest climb. I am honored to have been his friend all these years. He helped me in so many ways and I will never forget him.
Marty held dual American and New Zealand citizenships, as did Denali. He was a business partner of the New Zealand gear company Macpac, who released a statement:
We are deeply saddened to confirm that we have received news that Marty Schmidt aged 53, and Denali Schmidt aged 25 have been killed by an avalanche on K2 in Pakistan. The father and son team were reported missing on the afternoon of July 27th when fellow climber Chris Warner lost contact with the duo, having successfully reached Camp III on K2. A Sherpa went up to Camp III and found no sign of Marty and Denali.
Macpac have worked with Marty for many years and his smiling face around the office will be truly missed. Marty was a true inspiration; a leader and one of the kindest, most warm-spirited people one would ever have the pleasure of meeting.
He was thrilled to be sharing his absolute love of the mountains with his son on this journey. Marty described the mountains as a way to “connect to the natural rhythm of the earth, and climbing as a way to balance the physical, emotional, mental and spiritual aspects of life.” Of his most recent expedition, he said “There is no easy way around it. You have to love that hard work. It’s an inner calling; you have to feel at peace with what you’re working towards.”
Our thoughts are with the family and friends of Marty and Denali and the climbing community across the world. Boys, you will be truly missed. May you rest in peace in a place that you loved so much.
The Climber, a New Zealand climbing magazine, did a profile of Marty back in 2011:
When he first moved to New Zealand, Marty quickly considered it as his home. ‘Everyone has a calling inside,’ Marty says. ‘For me it was to live here in this beautiful land.’ And, while based in New Zealand, Marty developed his mountain guiding career, slowly but surely growing a loyal client base. ‘I guess my first high altitude experience was on Denali,’ Marty explains. ‘I was working as a pararescueman with the United States Air Force at the time, and got it into my head to climb Denali to help with my skill set for rescue.’
[vimeo 28342234 w=500 h=375]
In 2011, 28 years after establishing a new route on Mt. Mckinley, Marty and his son returned to summit the peak together. Denali Schmidt made a video of their adventures, complete with skiing down the mountain. It is absolutely amazing footage, and makes a fitting tribute to the former PJ and his son. They will be missed. RIP.
Alaskan Adventures, Marty and Denali Schmidt from Denali Schmidt on Vimeo.
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