Sweepers start to clear away debris, and drills buzz in the shells of gutted shops.

But the scene of the deadliest ever attack carried out by so-called Islamic State (IS) anywhere in the world is still a makeshift shrine. On 3 July, 292 Iraqis lost their lives here.

This week, the haunting strains of a cello wafted through the cavernous black hulks where two popular centres once drew in Iraqis for shopping and socialising.

“If terrorists are trying to turn every element of life into a battlefield, I will turn it into a field of beauty and civilisation,” declares Karim Wasifi, composer and conductor with Iraq’s National Symphony Orchestra.